Dangerous Ladies' 3D models for Spirit Blossom Kindred's Bow
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)
.stl format. Cut for a 200x200x300 printer or a 200x200x200 but many pieces will fit larger or smaller, and I've included whole versions of the arms for those who want to do custom cuts. Finishes at a delicious 59" long. There are a couple versions that will let you make it collapsible in various ways, or you can just glue it together permanently.
ALL ARM PIECES GET PRINTED TWICE –– remember to MIRROR the second print! Otherwise it won't be symmetrical.
The arms assemble using 18 (for 300mm) or 30 (for 200mm) 1.5” chunks of 3/8” dowel. (You may want to cut these a few mm shorter if your printer doesn’t print very tight overhangs!) I have included a file for a peg if you'd rather print them yourself but I do consider dowels stronger because prints can shear along the middle.
ASSEMBLY A: DOWEL HANDLE
If doing the dowel handle, you just need a 13.25” long square dowel (1/2” diameter) to attach everything together. The slot is tight enough that you can theoretically slot it apart for travel and whatnot, but it won’t be as secure as the other options. This is, however, the easy option.
ASSEMBLY B: PVC PIPE HANDLE
If doing the PVC pipe handle, there’s a 1” slot in the handle cap. You can install a 3/4” PVC pipe here OR the male-female coupling/adapter fittings for a screw-on 1/2” PVC pipe. These are not all made equally so I strongly suggest printing the bow arm joint part and bringing it to the hardware store to make sure you find something that works. This is the option that lets your handle screw off without needing to drill holes or anything, just glue the joints in and go.
ASSEMBLY C: SCREW JOINT HANDLE
If doing the screw joint handle, there is a slot inside the bow arm joint for a 1/2” nut (measured from flat side to flat side) that is 1/4” deep. Glue a nut in there and put a corresponding hangar bolt into a 11.5” long dowel (1” diameter) for the handle. This is the trickiest option (C) as you need to install the hangar bolt into the centre of the dowel on both ends, but it is the cleanest look and most secure assembly!
Files include:
- Photos
- .STL files
We printed ours at 0.15 layers. We suggest keeping a moderate infill (no lower than 10%) and walls of about 1.2-1.4mm, ideally 2mm on the joint piece.
Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.
Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.
http://dangerousladies.storenvy.com
http://twitter.com/dangerousladies
http://instagram.com/thedangerousladies
Materials: digital file
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)
.stl format. Cut for a 200x200x300 printer or a 200x200x200 but many pieces will fit larger or smaller, and I've included whole versions of the arms for those who want to do custom cuts. Finishes at a delicious 59" long. There are a couple versions that will let you make it collapsible in various ways, or you can just glue it together permanently.
ALL ARM PIECES GET PRINTED TWICE –– remember to MIRROR the second print! Otherwise it won't be symmetrical.
The arms assemble using 18 (for 300mm) or 30 (for 200mm) 1.5” chunks of 3/8” dowel. (You may want to cut these a few mm shorter if your printer doesn’t print very tight overhangs!) I have included a file for a peg if you'd rather print them yourself but I do consider dowels stronger because prints can shear along the middle.
ASSEMBLY A: DOWEL HANDLE
If doing the dowel handle, you just need a 13.25” long square dowel (1/2” diameter) to attach everything together. The slot is tight enough that you can theoretically slot it apart for travel and whatnot, but it won’t be as secure as the other options. This is, however, the easy option.
ASSEMBLY B: PVC PIPE HANDLE
If doing the PVC pipe handle, there’s a 1” slot in the handle cap. You can install a 3/4” PVC pipe here OR the male-female coupling/adapter fittings for a screw-on 1/2” PVC pipe. These are not all made equally so I strongly suggest printing the bow arm joint part and bringing it to the hardware store to make sure you find something that works. This is the option that lets your handle screw off without needing to drill holes or anything, just glue the joints in and go.
ASSEMBLY C: SCREW JOINT HANDLE
If doing the screw joint handle, there is a slot inside the bow arm joint for a 1/2” nut (measured from flat side to flat side) that is 1/4” deep. Glue a nut in there and put a corresponding hangar bolt into a 11.5” long dowel (1” diameter) for the handle. This is the trickiest option (C) as you need to install the hangar bolt into the centre of the dowel on both ends, but it is the cleanest look and most secure assembly!
Files include:
- Photos
- .STL files
We printed ours at 0.15 layers. We suggest keeping a moderate infill (no lower than 10%) and walls of about 1.2-1.4mm, ideally 2mm on the joint piece.
Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.
Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.
http://dangerousladies.storenvy.com
http://twitter.com/dangerousladies
http://instagram.com/thedangerousladies
Materials: digital file
Dangerous Ladies' 3D models for Spirit Blossom Kindred's Bow
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)
.stl format. Cut for a 200x200x300 printer or a 200x200x200 but many pieces will fit larger or smaller, and I've included whole versions of the arms for those who want to do custom cuts. Finishes at a delicious 59" long. There are a couple versions that will let you make it collapsible in various ways, or you can just glue it together permanently.
ALL ARM PIECES GET PRINTED TWICE –– remember to MIRROR the second print! Otherwise it won't be symmetrical.
The arms assemble using 18 (for 300mm) or 30 (for 200mm) 1.5” chunks of 3/8” dowel. (You may want to cut these a few mm shorter if your printer doesn’t print very tight overhangs!) I have included a file for a peg if you'd rather print them yourself but I do consider dowels stronger because prints can shear along the middle.
ASSEMBLY A: DOWEL HANDLE
If doing the dowel handle, you just need a 13.25” long square dowel (1/2” diameter) to attach everything together. The slot is tight enough that you can theoretically slot it apart for travel and whatnot, but it won’t be as secure as the other options. This is, however, the easy option.
ASSEMBLY B: PVC PIPE HANDLE
If doing the PVC pipe handle, there’s a 1” slot in the handle cap. You can install a 3/4” PVC pipe here OR the male-female coupling/adapter fittings for a screw-on 1/2” PVC pipe. These are not all made equally so I strongly suggest printing the bow arm joint part and bringing it to the hardware store to make sure you find something that works. This is the option that lets your handle screw off without needing to drill holes or anything, just glue the joints in and go.
ASSEMBLY C: SCREW JOINT HANDLE
If doing the screw joint handle, there is a slot inside the bow arm joint for a 1/2” nut (measured from flat side to flat side) that is 1/4” deep. Glue a nut in there and put a corresponding hangar bolt into a 11.5” long dowel (1” diameter) for the handle. This is the trickiest option (C) as you need to install the hangar bolt into the centre of the dowel on both ends, but it is the cleanest look and most secure assembly!
Files include:
- Photos
- .STL files
We printed ours at 0.15 layers. We suggest keeping a moderate infill (no lower than 10%) and walls of about 1.2-1.4mm, ideally 2mm on the joint piece.
Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.
Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.
http://dangerousladies.storenvy.com
http://twitter.com/dangerousladies
http://instagram.com/thedangerousladies
Materials: digital file
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)
.stl format. Cut for a 200x200x300 printer or a 200x200x200 but many pieces will fit larger or smaller, and I've included whole versions of the arms for those who want to do custom cuts. Finishes at a delicious 59" long. There are a couple versions that will let you make it collapsible in various ways, or you can just glue it together permanently.
ALL ARM PIECES GET PRINTED TWICE –– remember to MIRROR the second print! Otherwise it won't be symmetrical.
The arms assemble using 18 (for 300mm) or 30 (for 200mm) 1.5” chunks of 3/8” dowel. (You may want to cut these a few mm shorter if your printer doesn’t print very tight overhangs!) I have included a file for a peg if you'd rather print them yourself but I do consider dowels stronger because prints can shear along the middle.
ASSEMBLY A: DOWEL HANDLE
If doing the dowel handle, you just need a 13.25” long square dowel (1/2” diameter) to attach everything together. The slot is tight enough that you can theoretically slot it apart for travel and whatnot, but it won’t be as secure as the other options. This is, however, the easy option.
ASSEMBLY B: PVC PIPE HANDLE
If doing the PVC pipe handle, there’s a 1” slot in the handle cap. You can install a 3/4” PVC pipe here OR the male-female coupling/adapter fittings for a screw-on 1/2” PVC pipe. These are not all made equally so I strongly suggest printing the bow arm joint part and bringing it to the hardware store to make sure you find something that works. This is the option that lets your handle screw off without needing to drill holes or anything, just glue the joints in and go.
ASSEMBLY C: SCREW JOINT HANDLE
If doing the screw joint handle, there is a slot inside the bow arm joint for a 1/2” nut (measured from flat side to flat side) that is 1/4” deep. Glue a nut in there and put a corresponding hangar bolt into a 11.5” long dowel (1” diameter) for the handle. This is the trickiest option (C) as you need to install the hangar bolt into the centre of the dowel on both ends, but it is the cleanest look and most secure assembly!
Files include:
- Photos
- .STL files
We printed ours at 0.15 layers. We suggest keeping a moderate infill (no lower than 10%) and walls of about 1.2-1.4mm, ideally 2mm on the joint piece.
Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.
Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.
http://dangerousladies.storenvy.com
http://twitter.com/dangerousladies
http://instagram.com/thedangerousladies
Materials: digital file
Reviews
Finishing Guides
Quick Finishing Guide - 3D Printed and Resin Kits
Just purchased a kit? Thanks for supporting us! Don't know where to start in assembling your 3D Print or Resin kit? We've got you covered.
The Basic Supplies for Bodyshopping 3D Prints
This guide is a great follow-along if you've purchased any Dangerous Ladies 3D printed cosplay props. This article is on the basic supplies you'll need for sanding FDM prints, with no...