Dangerous Ladies' 3D models for Cloud's Buster Sword
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)
.stl format. Split for 200mm and 300mm tall printers.
Finishing at a whopping 61", this sword is huge, as it should be. It's sized for Cloud Strife, who is 5'8" tall -- if you're considerably taller or shorter, you may want to scale it up or down. The blade is about an inch thick, so it cuts bulk significantly compared to the blockiness of previous games. Thanks Nomura!
The materia slots are not hollow; the materia files included are halved to sit on the outside. While you could add a hole through there, I do not recommend it because it limits the structural integrity of the sword -- you couldn't run a dowel/rod through the middle of the entire blade for strength if you did that! :) You can purchase gems for your sword here!
ASSEMBLY
Requires:
Two 1/2" dowels for alignment/support structure - one 40.5", one 43.5"
One 5/8" dowel or aluminum or steel rod for inner column; 54.75" long. This threads through to the base of the handle so we do suggest an aluminum or hollow steel rod (like EMT conduit) because it will give your print way more strength.
Very long/heavy prints tend to have gravity issues; your seams will crack if you only patch them with bondo or similar because the print will bend the slightest bit under its own weight. We strongly suggest using a stronger gap filler for seams, such as XTC3D, superbaby (baby powder mixed with superglue), or a sandable 2-part 5 min epoxy.
If you want to make this prop collapse for transport, you can cut the inner support rods in pieces with some overlap so they slot together. Leave 3-5 inches of support dowel/rod sticking out from one end of the blade and the same amount of gap inside the next piece and then slot together.
HANDLE
The handle has a couple variants. The "patterned" version is made to look like wrappings. The "plain" version is just a sleeve to bulk out the inner core before you wrap it with real leather. If you wanted, you could just not print this part and instead wrap the core itself; you might have to pad out your wrappings a bit with felt or foam, but it saves print hours.
Files include:
- Photos
- .STL files
We printed ours at 0.15 and 0.2mm layers. We suggest keeping a moderate infill (no lower than 15%) and walls of about 1.2-1.4mm.
Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.
Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)
.stl format. Split for 200mm and 300mm tall printers.
Finishing at a whopping 61", this sword is huge, as it should be. It's sized for Cloud Strife, who is 5'8" tall -- if you're considerably taller or shorter, you may want to scale it up or down. The blade is about an inch thick, so it cuts bulk significantly compared to the blockiness of previous games. Thanks Nomura!
The materia slots are not hollow; the materia files included are halved to sit on the outside. While you could add a hole through there, I do not recommend it because it limits the structural integrity of the sword -- you couldn't run a dowel/rod through the middle of the entire blade for strength if you did that! :) You can purchase gems for your sword here!
ASSEMBLY
Requires:
Two 1/2" dowels for alignment/support structure - one 40.5", one 43.5"
One 5/8" dowel or aluminum or steel rod for inner column; 54.75" long. This threads through to the base of the handle so we do suggest an aluminum or hollow steel rod (like EMT conduit) because it will give your print way more strength.
Very long/heavy prints tend to have gravity issues; your seams will crack if you only patch them with bondo or similar because the print will bend the slightest bit under its own weight. We strongly suggest using a stronger gap filler for seams, such as XTC3D, superbaby (baby powder mixed with superglue), or a sandable 2-part 5 min epoxy.
If you want to make this prop collapse for transport, you can cut the inner support rods in pieces with some overlap so they slot together. Leave 3-5 inches of support dowel/rod sticking out from one end of the blade and the same amount of gap inside the next piece and then slot together.
HANDLE
The handle has a couple variants. The "patterned" version is made to look like wrappings. The "plain" version is just a sleeve to bulk out the inner core before you wrap it with real leather. If you wanted, you could just not print this part and instead wrap the core itself; you might have to pad out your wrappings a bit with felt or foam, but it saves print hours.
Files include:
- Photos
- .STL files
We printed ours at 0.15 and 0.2mm layers. We suggest keeping a moderate infill (no lower than 15%) and walls of about 1.2-1.4mm.
Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.
Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.
Dangerous Ladies' 3D models for Cloud's Buster Sword
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)
.stl format. Split for 200mm and 300mm tall printers.
Finishing at a whopping 61", this sword is huge, as it should be. It's sized for Cloud Strife, who is 5'8" tall -- if you're considerably taller or shorter, you may want to scale it up or down. The blade is about an inch thick, so it cuts bulk significantly compared to the blockiness of previous games. Thanks Nomura!
The materia slots are not hollow; the materia files included are halved to sit on the outside. While you could add a hole through there, I do not recommend it because it limits the structural integrity of the sword -- you couldn't run a dowel/rod through the middle of the entire blade for strength if you did that! :) You can purchase gems for your sword here!
ASSEMBLY
Requires:
Two 1/2" dowels for alignment/support structure - one 40.5", one 43.5"
One 5/8" dowel or aluminum or steel rod for inner column; 54.75" long. This threads through to the base of the handle so we do suggest an aluminum or hollow steel rod (like EMT conduit) because it will give your print way more strength.
Very long/heavy prints tend to have gravity issues; your seams will crack if you only patch them with bondo or similar because the print will bend the slightest bit under its own weight. We strongly suggest using a stronger gap filler for seams, such as XTC3D, superbaby (baby powder mixed with superglue), or a sandable 2-part 5 min epoxy.
If you want to make this prop collapse for transport, you can cut the inner support rods in pieces with some overlap so they slot together. Leave 3-5 inches of support dowel/rod sticking out from one end of the blade and the same amount of gap inside the next piece and then slot together.
HANDLE
The handle has a couple variants. The "patterned" version is made to look like wrappings. The "plain" version is just a sleeve to bulk out the inner core before you wrap it with real leather. If you wanted, you could just not print this part and instead wrap the core itself; you might have to pad out your wrappings a bit with felt or foam, but it saves print hours.
Files include:
- Photos
- .STL files
We printed ours at 0.15 and 0.2mm layers. We suggest keeping a moderate infill (no lower than 15%) and walls of about 1.2-1.4mm.
Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.
Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)
.stl format. Split for 200mm and 300mm tall printers.
Finishing at a whopping 61", this sword is huge, as it should be. It's sized for Cloud Strife, who is 5'8" tall -- if you're considerably taller or shorter, you may want to scale it up or down. The blade is about an inch thick, so it cuts bulk significantly compared to the blockiness of previous games. Thanks Nomura!
The materia slots are not hollow; the materia files included are halved to sit on the outside. While you could add a hole through there, I do not recommend it because it limits the structural integrity of the sword -- you couldn't run a dowel/rod through the middle of the entire blade for strength if you did that! :) You can purchase gems for your sword here!
ASSEMBLY
Requires:
Two 1/2" dowels for alignment/support structure - one 40.5", one 43.5"
One 5/8" dowel or aluminum or steel rod for inner column; 54.75" long. This threads through to the base of the handle so we do suggest an aluminum or hollow steel rod (like EMT conduit) because it will give your print way more strength.
Very long/heavy prints tend to have gravity issues; your seams will crack if you only patch them with bondo or similar because the print will bend the slightest bit under its own weight. We strongly suggest using a stronger gap filler for seams, such as XTC3D, superbaby (baby powder mixed with superglue), or a sandable 2-part 5 min epoxy.
If you want to make this prop collapse for transport, you can cut the inner support rods in pieces with some overlap so they slot together. Leave 3-5 inches of support dowel/rod sticking out from one end of the blade and the same amount of gap inside the next piece and then slot together.
HANDLE
The handle has a couple variants. The "patterned" version is made to look like wrappings. The "plain" version is just a sleeve to bulk out the inner core before you wrap it with real leather. If you wanted, you could just not print this part and instead wrap the core itself; you might have to pad out your wrappings a bit with felt or foam, but it saves print hours.
Files include:
- Photos
- .STL files
We printed ours at 0.15 and 0.2mm layers. We suggest keeping a moderate infill (no lower than 15%) and walls of about 1.2-1.4mm.
Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.
Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.
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