White Mage's Bunny's Crescent Staff [3D Printed Kit] 3D Printed Kit cosplay DangerousLadies

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Dangerous Ladies' 3D models for Trey's Whisk
Model by Cole Nielsen (@_craftcentric)

.stl format. Sliced for a printer 250mm print beds. Finishes at roughly 48" from end to end. The crank is functional, so it can spin!

Requires the following hardware:
- 1/4" diameter threaded rod, cut to 27.625" 
- 1/4" nuts (x8) and washers (x10)
- an m6 screw  less than 1 inch long
- 1/2" PVC pipe, cut 6.5" long (OD 21.8mm)
- 1/2" aluminum pipe, cut  15.5" long 
  - 6 small pieces of 1.75mm filament or tooth picks for alignment keys 
- 1/8" dowel, cut 1" long (x4)

The prop has to be assembled in a certain order. You should dry assemble with no glue first to have a solid understanding of how everything goes together. 

Start with the upper whisk handle. This will make mounting the large gear, and the small gear easier.

The small gear has a spot to set a 1/4" 20 nut into the top of it. (This will be driving your whisk beaters!) The small gear drives the whisk, so it can move the nut around; once you have everything ready for final assembly, this nut will need to be glued in place. Without glue the nut on the shaft can come loose and lose grip.

We've divided the whisk into sections to assemble.

1st: Insert the 1/2 PVC pipe and 2 printed assembly keys between the 2 whisk frame halves. Use glue if you are ready.

2nd: Assemble whisk beaters using the four 1/8" dowel pieces and the 1/2" aluminum pipe. Use glue if you are ready.

3rd: Place one nut in the small gear, and one nut on the threaded rod underneath the gear. Place a washer and 2 nuts onto the shaft sitting between the beaters and the frame. Tighten the 2 nuts against each other –– this will need to be higher than the washer. Your shaft should be able to wiggle up and down. Then place the assembled whisk beater on the shaft and tighten a nut against the top of it. The outer frame can now assemble onto this. 

4th: Assemble the upper whisk handle; this is the frame which the gears are built into. Start by sanding the holes on both sides of the handle frame to make sure there's enough room for the parts to spin without grinding against each other. Insert the large gear between the bars and secure in place with the pin and crank handle.

5th: Attach the drive gear and upper whisk handle using the 2 drive shaft pieces. The round cylindrical section will need to be sanded to make it spin fast and smooth.

6th: Test that the crank and drive gear drive the whisk beaters. If they work correctly, you can assemble the outer hoop using small lengths of filament to pin the 2 halves together on either side. The whisk should now be complete.

To secure the crank on the gear shaft, use a small bolt. We used an M6 –– any size smaller than 1" will do, ie 3/16", 1/4" or 5/16" with a washer underneath. The 1/4" washers should work fine this is to apply pressure to keep the crank attached to the shaft.


Files include:
- Photos
- .STL files

Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.

Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.

 

Trey Clover's Royal Chef Whisk [3D Print Files]

SKU: 51357984850237
Regular price $25.00
Unit price
per 
Instant Download
Email Delivery
Modelled in Canada
Shipping calculated at checkout.

.stl file

Shipped and Made Consciously. Read More

Need help? Contact us

Dangerous Ladies' 3D models for Trey's Whisk
Model by Cole Nielsen (@_craftcentric)

.stl format. Sliced for a printer 250mm print beds. Finishes at roughly 48" from end to end. The crank is functional, so it can spin!

Requires the following hardware:
- 1/4" diameter threaded rod, cut to 27.625" 
- 1/4" nuts (x8) and washers (x10)
- an m6 screw  less than 1 inch long
- 1/2" PVC pipe, cut 6.5" long (OD 21.8mm)
- 1/2" aluminum pipe, cut  15.5" long 
  - 6 small pieces of 1.75mm filament or tooth picks for alignment keys 
- 1/8" dowel, cut 1" long (x4)

The prop has to be assembled in a certain order. You should dry assemble with no glue first to have a solid understanding of how everything goes together. 

Start with the upper whisk handle. This will make mounting the large gear, and the small gear easier.

The small gear has a spot to set a 1/4" 20 nut into the top of it. (This will be driving your whisk beaters!) The small gear drives the whisk, so it can move the nut around; once you have everything ready for final assembly, this nut will need to be glued in place. Without glue the nut on the shaft can come loose and lose grip.

We've divided the whisk into sections to assemble.

1st: Insert the 1/2 PVC pipe and 2 printed assembly keys between the 2 whisk frame halves. Use glue if you are ready.

2nd: Assemble whisk beaters using the four 1/8" dowel pieces and the 1/2" aluminum pipe. Use glue if you are ready.

3rd: Place one nut in the small gear, and one nut on the threaded rod underneath the gear. Place a washer and 2 nuts onto the shaft sitting between the beaters and the frame. Tighten the 2 nuts against each other –– this will need to be higher than the washer. Your shaft should be able to wiggle up and down. Then place the assembled whisk beater on the shaft and tighten a nut against the top of it. The outer frame can now assemble onto this. 

4th: Assemble the upper whisk handle; this is the frame which the gears are built into. Start by sanding the holes on both sides of the handle frame to make sure there's enough room for the parts to spin without grinding against each other. Insert the large gear between the bars and secure in place with the pin and crank handle.

5th: Attach the drive gear and upper whisk handle using the 2 drive shaft pieces. The round cylindrical section will need to be sanded to make it spin fast and smooth.

6th: Test that the crank and drive gear drive the whisk beaters. If they work correctly, you can assemble the outer hoop using small lengths of filament to pin the 2 halves together on either side. The whisk should now be complete.

To secure the crank on the gear shaft, use a small bolt. We used an M6 –– any size smaller than 1" will do, ie 3/16", 1/4" or 5/16" with a washer underneath. The 1/4" washers should work fine this is to apply pressure to keep the crank attached to the shaft.


Files include:
- Photos
- .STL files

Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.

Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.

 

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