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Dangerous Ladies' 3D models for the shimmery witch rod.
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)
.stl format. Pre-sliced for printing on a bed that is at least 280mm tall. If you’re printing the hollow version flat, you can get away with a bed that is 250x250mm at the base, regardless of height.
I’ve included a few versions of the white body:
- solid, whole
- solid, in three parts
- hollow, whole half body
- hollow, in six parts
The top fin prints separately always.
The solid version is exactly what it says on the tin; a solid body with a channel down the center for a support rod, which is 33.5” of 1/4” dowel. The split version is also keyed for alignment and strength.
The hollow version is hollowed out and has holes in the “eye sockets” for lights and wiring. The whole body comes apart into two halves on magnets (7 sets of 3/8” magnets and 2 sets of 1/4” magnets) so you can access the internals easily. The bottom part of the rod has a large enough cavity to fit a 1” cylinder battery like an external phone charger battery. (A square of velcro can keep it from sliding around, too.) The hollow version also needs four 10mm pegs, 1/8” to help align. If you don’t want to cut dowels for this, a couple toothpicks do the job too!
I’ve also included a number of versions of the eye files, including:
- a solid dome
- a hollow dome
- a solid dome with a cavity inside
- a pupil that fits inside the above’s cavity.
If you are printing FDM, you can print the hollow dome and use a transluscent filament like PolySmooth by PolyMaker and spray it with alcohol to make it 99% transparent. You can also print the solid dome with any filament and paint it.
If you are printing with a resin printer, I suggest printing the dome with the cavity in clear resin and then either painting the inside of the cavity or inserting the pupil.
You can also simply purchase 19mm clear domes and paint the backs.
Files include:
- Reference images
- stl files
We printed ours at 0.1 and 0.15mm layers. We suggest keeping a moderate infill (no lower than 15%) and walls of about 1-1.2mm.
Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.
Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.
http://twitter.com/dangerousladies
http://instagram.com/thedangerousladies
Materials: digital file
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)
.stl format. Pre-sliced for printing on a bed that is at least 280mm tall. If you’re printing the hollow version flat, you can get away with a bed that is 250x250mm at the base, regardless of height.
I’ve included a few versions of the white body:
- solid, whole
- solid, in three parts
- hollow, whole half body
- hollow, in six parts
The top fin prints separately always.
The solid version is exactly what it says on the tin; a solid body with a channel down the center for a support rod, which is 33.5” of 1/4” dowel. The split version is also keyed for alignment and strength.
The hollow version is hollowed out and has holes in the “eye sockets” for lights and wiring. The whole body comes apart into two halves on magnets (7 sets of 3/8” magnets and 2 sets of 1/4” magnets) so you can access the internals easily. The bottom part of the rod has a large enough cavity to fit a 1” cylinder battery like an external phone charger battery. (A square of velcro can keep it from sliding around, too.) The hollow version also needs four 10mm pegs, 1/8” to help align. If you don’t want to cut dowels for this, a couple toothpicks do the job too!
I’ve also included a number of versions of the eye files, including:
- a solid dome
- a hollow dome
- a solid dome with a cavity inside
- a pupil that fits inside the above’s cavity.
If you are printing FDM, you can print the hollow dome and use a transluscent filament like PolySmooth by PolyMaker and spray it with alcohol to make it 99% transparent. You can also print the solid dome with any filament and paint it.
If you are printing with a resin printer, I suggest printing the dome with the cavity in clear resin and then either painting the inside of the cavity or inserting the pupil.
You can also simply purchase 19mm clear domes and paint the backs.
Files include:
- Reference images
- stl files
We printed ours at 0.1 and 0.15mm layers. We suggest keeping a moderate infill (no lower than 15%) and walls of about 1-1.2mm.
Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.
Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.
http://twitter.com/dangerousladies
http://instagram.com/thedangerousladies
Materials: digital file
Shimmery Witch Rod [3D Print Files]
SKU: 454
Instant Download
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Dangerous Ladies' 3D models for the shimmery witch rod.
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)
.stl format. Pre-sliced for printing on a bed that is at least 280mm tall. If you’re printing the hollow version flat, you can get away with a bed that is 250x250mm at the base, regardless of height.
I’ve included a few versions of the white body:
- solid, whole
- solid, in three parts
- hollow, whole half body
- hollow, in six parts
The top fin prints separately always.
The solid version is exactly what it says on the tin; a solid body with a channel down the center for a support rod, which is 33.5” of 1/4” dowel. The split version is also keyed for alignment and strength.
The hollow version is hollowed out and has holes in the “eye sockets” for lights and wiring. The whole body comes apart into two halves on magnets (7 sets of 3/8” magnets and 2 sets of 1/4” magnets) so you can access the internals easily. The bottom part of the rod has a large enough cavity to fit a 1” cylinder battery like an external phone charger battery. (A square of velcro can keep it from sliding around, too.) The hollow version also needs four 10mm pegs, 1/8” to help align. If you don’t want to cut dowels for this, a couple toothpicks do the job too!
I’ve also included a number of versions of the eye files, including:
- a solid dome
- a hollow dome
- a solid dome with a cavity inside
- a pupil that fits inside the above’s cavity.
If you are printing FDM, you can print the hollow dome and use a transluscent filament like PolySmooth by PolyMaker and spray it with alcohol to make it 99% transparent. You can also print the solid dome with any filament and paint it.
If you are printing with a resin printer, I suggest printing the dome with the cavity in clear resin and then either painting the inside of the cavity or inserting the pupil.
You can also simply purchase 19mm clear domes and paint the backs.
Files include:
- Reference images
- stl files
We printed ours at 0.1 and 0.15mm layers. We suggest keeping a moderate infill (no lower than 15%) and walls of about 1-1.2mm.
Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.
Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.
http://twitter.com/dangerousladies
http://instagram.com/thedangerousladies
Materials: digital file
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)
.stl format. Pre-sliced for printing on a bed that is at least 280mm tall. If you’re printing the hollow version flat, you can get away with a bed that is 250x250mm at the base, regardless of height.
I’ve included a few versions of the white body:
- solid, whole
- solid, in three parts
- hollow, whole half body
- hollow, in six parts
The top fin prints separately always.
The solid version is exactly what it says on the tin; a solid body with a channel down the center for a support rod, which is 33.5” of 1/4” dowel. The split version is also keyed for alignment and strength.
The hollow version is hollowed out and has holes in the “eye sockets” for lights and wiring. The whole body comes apart into two halves on magnets (7 sets of 3/8” magnets and 2 sets of 1/4” magnets) so you can access the internals easily. The bottom part of the rod has a large enough cavity to fit a 1” cylinder battery like an external phone charger battery. (A square of velcro can keep it from sliding around, too.) The hollow version also needs four 10mm pegs, 1/8” to help align. If you don’t want to cut dowels for this, a couple toothpicks do the job too!
I’ve also included a number of versions of the eye files, including:
- a solid dome
- a hollow dome
- a solid dome with a cavity inside
- a pupil that fits inside the above’s cavity.
If you are printing FDM, you can print the hollow dome and use a transluscent filament like PolySmooth by PolyMaker and spray it with alcohol to make it 99% transparent. You can also print the solid dome with any filament and paint it.
If you are printing with a resin printer, I suggest printing the dome with the cavity in clear resin and then either painting the inside of the cavity or inserting the pupil.
You can also simply purchase 19mm clear domes and paint the backs.
Files include:
- Reference images
- stl files
We printed ours at 0.1 and 0.15mm layers. We suggest keeping a moderate infill (no lower than 15%) and walls of about 1-1.2mm.
Please do not redistribute or resell. Intended for personal use only. Commercial use must buy a new copy for each item produced.
Feel free to tag us to show us what you print and make! We love to see finished works.
http://twitter.com/dangerousladies
http://instagram.com/thedangerousladies
Materials: digital file
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