Dangerous Ladies' 3D models for Verso's Simoso Sword and Dagger.
Model by Jennifer Rezny (@quicksparrows)

.stl format. Cut for printers 250mm tall. This thing is huge and finishes at 60", which is too small for Simon but just right for Verso!

The main sword is hollow, ostensibly to save weight, but you can also light it up. There is no real good way to light it up because it's not super thick and needs an internal core for strength, nor is there a great place to access the internals. It's a tricky project! I've made it so that the pommel comes off so you can access the insides IF you use a hollow rod for the inside, specifically a clear acrylic one.

IF you want to get the LEDs into the blade itself and not just the center core, you have three options: 
1. Leave one segment of the blade disassembled from the rest so you can slide it apart to access the innards. (You may want to do this anyway for transporting the thing to cons!) You will want to install a little strip of plastic or similar on the inside edge of those blade edges so they don't spin away from each other/rotate, but it will mean you can separate the blade. I've included some little tabs you can print to use for this purpose, if you like.
2. There are some escape holes along the center support channel; if you drill holes into your hollow inner support dowel, you can thread lights from here into the main body. In this method, you will have to thread in LEDs as you assemble the blade onto the rod, section by section; if you assemble it all at once, you will not be able to get the LEDs through the whole sword blind.

So: it assembles on a 3/4" rod, cut 53" long. If you use a hollow one, that's an outer diameter of 3/4" and an inner diameter of 1/2", which is just enough to snake some powerful LEDs in. You may have to run the battery externally unless you can use a lipstick-style power bank inside the rod.

The dagger finishes at 16.5" long, and needs a 1/4" dowel, cut 5.5" long. You could use a hollow one for this too (like a straw) for lights, but it might just be easier to skip the internals in that case. (You can use a bit of 1/4" dowel to make the pommel slot into the handle and still be removable, if so.)

If you wanted to print a Simon-scale one, I'd print everything at a 133% scale to get an 80" sword using a 1" rod, or 166% to get an 100" sword using a 1.25" rod. In those cases, however, you will need a printer that is 320 tall for the 80", or 400mm for the 100" version, unless you cut it down into more parts.

Files include:
- Photos
- .STL files

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